Exploring Lima and Heading to Cuzco

After landing in Lima, we decided to stay for a few days, just relaxing off the jetlag and catching the sites around town.

We took some time to go down to Central Lima, taking the micro buses, which did not end up being overly smooth, but did end up being entertaining. The jostling and fumes led us all to feel a little ill while riding around in the bus, but I was happy to find out mine is not the weakest stomach in the group.

While in Central Lima, we took in the San Francisco Monastery. It’s a beautiful site with lush gardens and murals on the main level and a maze of catacombs deep underground. I was taken with the place until I realized the troupe of archaeologists who dug out the catacombs had done so in a not-so-respectful manner. They regrouped the bones into types to calculate the MNI (minimum number of individuals) and did not properly rebury the skeletons once they were finished. Most of you who have known me in an archaeological context (archaeology pun!) know my opinions on the proper handling of human remains. We absolutely must respect that these skeletons used to be people and we must respect the beliefs they held during their lifetime.

I’m sure that will be fodder for a post in itself someday.

Downtown Lima was hectic and full of riot police. There was no actual rioting ,but thanks to the APEC Conference, they had to be prepared. Delegates from all over the world were coming in to talk oil & gas, so naturally, there were going to be a few protests. We didn’t see any trouble beyond some anti-Bush signs. I suppose the US should have sent Obama instead.

There was some discomforting sights though. As we stood around waiting for the procession welcoming Chinese president Hu Jinto, we distinctly saw snipers setting up along key rooftops and massive attack dogs running around off leash checking people for off-scents.

When we had finished watching the parade, we headed back to our hostel and stopped at the South American Explorers Club along the way. This was my kind of place. It reminded me of an old school adventurer’s guild, like the one you join in pretty much any RPG ever created. I’m such a nerd, but I think modern-day adventurer guilds should be a thing. Maybe someday, I’ll start my own. I’ll do it when I’m old and grey and too frail to travel anymore. I’ll live vicariously through the travels of others instead.

The following day, we visited Huaca Pucllana, a sprawling mudbrick site. Aside from the structures, there was a mini “zoo” of local animals, including the ugly but totally endearing Peruvian Hairless dogs. They were so sweet and ugly, their skin felt thick but really hot to the touch. I want one.

Now, on to the part where we made a profit off of the airlines. That’s not something you hear often, but we managed it. Shortly after leaving Huaca Pucllana, we went to the airport to catch our flight to Cuzco. We ended up being bumped, which caused us to be visibly annoyed, but we stayed respectful and that’s when the promises and money stated materializing. Long story short, I managed a $150 credit (which is the same as what that flight to Cuzco cost) that I can use to get back to Lima at the end of the month, plus an extra $60 cash just because. So that’s two flights for the price of one, but some spending money.

Though their first choice was to send us to a five-star hotel for the night, we agreed (in a vote of 4-1) that the cash would be more useful than a night in an expensive hotel. I think Josh was annoyed with the three of us, since after four days of being in Peru, he was interested in some luxury. But travel on a budget is not about luxury, my friends, it’s about the stories! And that money could turn into more stories.

Now, we have arrived in Cuzco and it’s been pretty great so far, though you definitely feel the altitude. For those of you wondering, I have had some of the coca tea and plan to drink more. I even have coca candies. No, I have not become a drug addict, but instead would rather stave off altitude sickness, which the coca helps with. In it’s pure leaf form, it’s pretty safe. Cocaine made from coca is incredibly refined and done through some strange chemistry that I don’t know much about. I am completely disinterested in starting the Inca Trail just to have to walk back down because the altitude is too strong for me.

The tea tastes a little strange, with an earthy flavour. Aside from the strange flavours, there aren’t any noticeable side-effects. I can’t say one way or another if it’s actually helping with the altitude, but I’m doing it anyway.

Cuzco is incredibly beautiful. I’m eager to get a head start on tomorrow to get out and take some photographs of this cozy mountain town.